DUI CF200x Crushed Neoprene Drysuit Review

July 20th, 2007

The exposure suit is perhaps the biggest difference maker when it comes to enjoying your dive. Even with the best equipment, dive buddies, location and experience – if you have an inadequate exposure suit for the conditions you’re diving in, you won’t have fun. In the worst case, you may not even be able to safely dive without the proper thermal protection.

The temperate waters of the Pacific Northwest, and Puget Sound in particular, fluctuate between temperatures of about 46 – 54 degrees Fahrenheit (winter – summer). Though people dive in wetsuits here, typically 7mm farmer johns, most divers will eventually end up ‘going dry’ if they dive with regularity over a period of time. A dry suit not only keeps you warmer, but is also typically easier to get in and out of, and allows for you to avoid that slimy feeling after diving, since you only get wet from the neck up (and sometimes hands).

A while back I wrote about my first drysuit, the O’Neill 7000x. It was a good suit for the money and taught me about all the things to take into consideration when going for my next suit. I liked the flexibility and ergonomic fit of the neoprene, but didn’t like the fluctuation in buoyancy characteristics that came along with it. The neoprene seals never leaked, but they were uncomfortable to get in and out of at times.

A Little Background on Drysuits

Perhaps the biggest/earliest decision you’ll need to make when considering which type of suit to get into is whether or not you want a ‘shell’ suit, or a ‘neoprene’ suit. Both have their advantages and disadvantages and I don’t think one is necessarily better than the other. The answer to which type of suit a diver should choose will depend largely on their personal preferences and the type of diving they’ll be doing. In general though, you can think of the two types as having the following characteristics:

Shell Suits – (Bilaminate/Trilaminate)

Pros:

• Easier to get in/out of.
• Dries very quickly.
• Durable.
• Packs very well.
• Easy to repair.
• Allows for a wide range of undergarment layering.

Cons:

• No inherent thermal protection.
• More drag, due to the looser fit of non-stretch material.
• Air is more likely to accumulate unevenly.
• ‘Garbage bag’ feeling (you’ll get used to it).

Neoprene Suits – (Normal/Compressed/Crushed)

Pros:

• Inherent thermal protection.
• Slim, form-fitting shape results in less drag and looks cool.
• Material is able to stretch and flex, allowing for greater range of motion.
• Air is more evenly distributed, resulting in better trim, etc.
• Feels great in the water.

Cons:

• Dries slowly.
• Repairs are more complex, take longer.
• Slim fit may allow for less undergarment layering.
• Regular neoprene (not crushed) is somewhat less durable over time than shell suit material.
• Bulky, heavy.

Keep in mind, these are generalizations and every manufacturer’s suits will vary to some degree. I tend to think of shell suits as great for traveling, since they dry quickly, pack well and since you can vary the undergarment a great deal, they can be taken to a great variety of water temperatures. Their advantages are largely appreciated on land. Neoprene type suits are terrific if the weight and drying time is not an issue, you don’t mind wiggling a little more to get in and out of them, and the performance in the water is most important to you. I count myself in the latter group, which is why I chose a crushed neoprene suit.

DUI Crushed Neoprene

No, this isn’t what happens to neoprene when a drunk driver rams his vehicle into it. Rather, DUI stands for Diving Unlimited International, Inc., one of the oldest and most respected names in exposure suit manufacture. A DUI suit is the Rolls Royce of diving suits, and most divers want to end up in one eventually. I won’t get into their full range of products, but let’s just say that this is one of the best companies in the dive industry when it comes to creating and supporting incredibly rugged and well-made products.

CF200 material is considered ‘crushed’ neoprene,

Over 20 years ago, DUI discovered a method of combining pressure, temperature and time to actually crush neoprene creating a thin, flexible and extremely durable drysuit.

This material is patented and its arrival decades ago kicked off a revolution in drysuit technology. This many years later, the CF200 is still the drysuit most used by the military and goverment, for the most rugged underwater activity. CF200 material is actually stronger than Kevlar, the primary material used in bulletproof vests. Knowing that I wanted a suit that would last through all sorts of abuse, I chose the CF200x drysuit (the ‘x’ denotes a front-entry zipper, as opposed to the ‘SE’ model, which stands for shoulder-entry).

Building a Custom DUI Drysuit

DUI offers several ways you can get into a suit. You can either choose a stock (base) model, and add accessories and features as needed. Or, they have a few different trim packages that include some of the features and color options as bundles. The offered trims are Stock < Select < Special Production < Signature Series. As you go up the line, you'll get more feature options and custom sizing - and the prices vary concomitantly ($2450 - $3100 MSRP). Essentially, Select adds color options on top of the Stock suit, and Special Production and Signature Series are both custom fit, with the latter coming with Kevlar kneepads and a choice of two pockets.

My advice is to get a stock sized suit if you fit into one perfectly. Otherwise, get one of the custom suits. You're spending so much money at this point, you want to be happy. I didn't fit into a stock size, so I opted for the Signature Series suit. Also, remember that there are many add-ons even to the top of the line suit, so budget accordingly.

Having a suit made for you by DUI involves being measured in 22 dimensions, for a truly custom fit. Next, I chose DUI's patented Zip Glove system, which allows you to replace the dry gloves on the suit by simply zipping them on and off like you do a Ziploc bag. Now, be aware that getting these on is not a trivial task. Though I've gotten better at it, I wouldn't consider this an option if you want to be able to pop your gloves on and off, like the ring systems on other drysuits. I just leave my dry gloves on all the time and have an extra pair in the truck in case I spring a leak. That being said, I really like this system, since I don't have an internal latex seal to deal with, as do the ring system gloves. Definitely get dry gloves if you can afford em, they're terrific and I couldn't imagine going back to wet gloves.

I opted for the Kevlar kneepads, because they look cooler, but if I could do it all over again I'd go for the standard CF200 material kneepads, since they're actually more durable. I got 4 reflectors on the suit, and am still completely perplexed as to the placement of 2 of them. I got two side leg pockets w/ velcro (I'd probably go zipper if I could do it over) and the slightly enlarged socks that allow more room for warmer undergarment booties. The only thing I wish I'd also opted for was the neck Zip Seal, and I'll tell you why below.

Getting the Suit

I’m glad I had a suit to dive while I waited for my CF200, because it took nearly 3 months from the time of ordering till it arrived! Though it was a very long wait, I’d rather have a suit with the build quality of a DUI than one that is mass produced in quick fashion and poor quality. I could barely contain my excitement the day my suit arrived at Underwater Sports. Happily, I put the suit on and it fit like a glove. Then, I reached down to pull off the Zip Glove and POW(!) the Zip Seal on the glove side ripped. I almost cried. :’(

The gloves were eventually replaced and the seal was determined to be defective (on the glove side), and since I’ve had two pairs of them with no problems whatsoever. But, that was an excruciating wait to have new gloves shipped to me while my shiny new drysuit sat in my house, collecting dust. That taught me that having proprietary replacement parts can be a pain, so if you get Zip Seals, remember to order a replacement or two along with your suit, and keep them handy.

Diving the suit for the first time was actually anticlimactic. I noticed some rough spots on the socks, and they’re best described as ‘crispy’ edges of the stitching on the inside that rubbed quite uncomfortably. Also, it did take some time to dial in the buoyancy since the CF200 was a looser fit than the O’Neill. The strangest thing is, I didn’t truly appreciate the DUI suit till a couple months later, when I blew out my first neck seal and had to dive the O’Neill again. Switching back to the old suit was a huge step down, in fact, an order of magnitude different than the step up into the DUI. Let me explain: with any suit, it will take time to adjust to the new features and characteristics, especially when you have very high expectations. As you slowly start to gain comfort in the suit (both figuratively and literally), you’ll hardly notice it. So, while the improvement may be very significant, it is oftentimes hard to tell while you’re getting used to the feeling and performance of a new suit. Delaying judgement is a good thing, when it comes to a new drysuit.

Room for Improvement

Though I consider these bits of constructive criticism to be pretty minor in the grand scheme of things, they have to be mentioned.

After about 15 months diving the DUI suit I’m convinced that its Achilles Heel is the neck seal. I’m on my fifth seal now. The stock DUI neck seal deteriorates at a fast clip, for some reason. I’ve been using Seal Saver religiously, storing the suit away from any fumes and out of the direct sunlight, and generally being a nut about trying to keep the seal in good shape. The only thing I can think of that may have been causing the seals any harm is the use of an Apollo Bio Seal, though that’s an unlikely possibility. After my fourth torn seal, I requested that my LDS install a Viking seal, which is a tougher type of seal. We’ll see how that goes and I will update this post when that one gives out, so consider the absence of a report as good news on the quality of the Viking seal.

DUI installed 2 of the 4 reflectors directly on the back of the suit – which renders them useless – unless I’m crossing the street in my drysuit in the dark without my BCD on (which is not that often). I’m thinking that it would make more sense to put reflectors that go all the way around the suit near the wrists and ankles – so that they can be seen from any angle.

Next, though DUI customer service has always been very friendly and helpful, the amount of time it took to get me into the water with the Zip Seal fiasco made for a frustrating wait with a new suit. I recommend that they either work toward having their retailers stock more replacement parts or speed up the shipping/handling process.

Lastly, I recommend that DUI include a leash on the outer zipper, which is hard to reach. Currently, there is a small plastic tab that broke off after a dozen uses or so.

The Final Verdict

Over a hundred dives later in my DUI, I am convinced that I will never own another brand of drysuit. Yes, I like my CF200x that much. The suit’s material itself has softened up considerably, all the crispiness is gone, and it is the most comfortable and functional drysuit I can imagine. It fits in every dimension, and has virtually no visible wear on it. The zipper moves smoothly and is in great shape. The included DUI Rock Boots are simple and easy to use. The valves are made of high grade material, of excellent build quality and the exhaust valve is intuitive to use and its placement is optimal. My CF200x drysuit has never leaked, period. DUI has earned themselves a lifelong customer, for all of these reasons.

A Few Helpful Tips

• This is a self donning suit, but if you have Zip Gloves you’ll likely leave them on like I do. The trick to actually self-donning the suit is to put the neck on first, then wiggle your arms in. This way, you won’t have to ask your dive buddies for help getting your neck seal seated properly.
• Get the orange dry gloves. They’re just as resilient as the blue ones but much more form fitting which means that you’ll have the added dexterity to do the things you need to do with the dry gloves on. I would only opt for the blue gloves if I had huge, fat hands or planned to do a great deal of work with my hands underwater.
• Rinse your suit and the valves after every dive. Every once in awhile, turn your suit inside out and give it a rinse. This is a terrific, durable and expensive suit. Make it last.
• Get a Weezle Undergarment w/ Booties.
• Use Seal Saver on the inside and outside of your seal(s), they’ll last longer and will slide on and off more easily.
• Use a bit of soapy water to get the Zip Seals/Gloves on. First get the entire seal inside of the seal on the suit side by bending them inward, then push them outward and grab one section, click it into place and then move along doing the same as you go. It takes practice, but now I can do it without any help and in about 5 minutes per seal.
• After putting the Rock Boots on, pull up on the suit just behind the calf to pull the extra material out of the boot, before pulling the laces tight. This will minimize the amount of air that can be trapped in the boot when in a heads-down position and will also make your feet comfortable.
• Use zipper wax often to extend the life of your drysuit zipper, probably the most expensive part of your suit. Don’t use beeswax, it collects dirt. And make sure to periodically clean out any debris from the zipper, using a toothbrush or something similar.
• After rinsing the suit, let it hang dry with the zipper open. This will keep the stank out of your suit, thus allowing you to meet other attractive, single divers.

Entry Filed under: SCUBA